The Difference Between Tequila and Mezcal

While tequila and mezcal are staples in American bar carts, many consumers need to learn the difference between the two spirits. Despite similar appearances, their processes are very different.

Tequila is made only from blue agave, harvested by hand using a curved tool called a coa by a jimador. The agave hearts are then steamed in industrial autoclaves.

Agave

The key difference between tequila and mezcal is using the agave plant. In tequila, the agave is cooked and then fermented using natural airborne yeast or commercial yeast to convert sugars into alcohol. The fermentation time varies depending on the climate but is usually between three and ten days. Some large producers now use what is known as a diffuser, which saves time but is controversial among agave experts as it can cause the liquid to taste less agave-y and, therefore, less authentic.

Mezcal is made from various species of agave, and the flavor depends on the specific agave used and the distillation process. It can be sipped straight or mixed into cocktails, often with mezcal-based foods like guacamole, salsas, and horchatas. It can also be sipped in little bowl-shaped cups carved out of dried gourds that are traditional vessels for mezcal.

The most popular agave for tequila is the blue Weber agave, which takes five to nine years to mature and has a high concentration of sugars that makes it a good candidate for fermentation. It can be roasted in rock-lined earthen pit ovens (hornos) or, more commonly, in above-ground brick ovens heated by wood, gas, or steam. Roasting times vary, but the quicker the agave is roasted, the sweeter and more neutral the tequila will be.

Cultivation

Cultivation is the process by which the agave plant is grown and harvested. In the case of tequila, the agave must be grown in designated regions that follow strict regulations. The agave must also be mature and ripe for harvest, with a ‘brix’ (total reductive sugars) of at least 21% to produce tequila. Once distilled, tequila can be sold as straight spirit or used in classic cocktails. Traditionally, only blue agave (agave tequilana) is used for tequila.

Agave is slow-growing compared to other crops, such as grapes and corn, meaning that tequila takes at least four years to mature. This is why some bars only serve tequila from the barrel, to preserve the quality and integrity of the product.

As for mezcal, it’s made from a broad range of agave species, and the resulting liquid has many more complex flavors than tequila. It is also one of the few spirits where producers can identify which agave was used to make a particular expression. Look closely at the label of a mezcal, and you’ll often see the name of the agave, the mezcalero, and the village where it was made. This level of transparency is unmatched by other spirits categories. The unique terroir of different mezcals also contributes to their high complexity and breadth of aromas and flavors, from minerally to floral to smoky.

Distillation

While tequila and mezcal are made from agave, the processes that distinguish them are quite different. For example, mezcals are steamed (in pits lined with wood or rock) instead of roasted, which can add a smoky character. Also, mezcals are generally made in smaller batches by producers in rural villages, which can increase production costs and contribute to higher pricing.

The agaves are ground with a stone wheel called a tahona to break up the fibers and extract the juices (aguamiel). This liquid is fermented with natural airborne yeasts for mezcals or commercial yeasts for tequila to produce alcohol. The resulting beer-like most, is then distilled.

Tequilas are usually distilled twice in a pot or column stills, while mezcals are often distilled only once. The resulting distillate is known as sabroso, and it is filtered. During distillation, most heads are isolated and discarded because they contain dangerous alcohols, including deadly methanol. The tails, which smell like acetone and are rich in carbohydrate sugars, are then collected and used to make granule mezcals.

Other mezcals are made from other types of agave and are therefore not considered tequila.

Aging

While tequila and mezcal may share the same roots, they differ in other important ways. One significant difference is that tequila is only made from blue agave and cooked in ovens. In contrast, mezcal can be made with any agave and developed its quintessential smoky flavor through slow roasting underground.

In addition, mezcals can be aged and labeled according to those aging processes, allowing for joven, reposado, and anejo options. As with tequila, the aged mezcals will develop a more complex flavor profile due to time in oak.

Cooking the agave and distilling it into mezcal is long and labor-intensive. Still, there are a variety of mezcal production methods that vary by region.

Another regional variation is the use of the maguey worm or hyperopia again. This caterpillar is known to live inside the maguey plant, and when its larvae eat their way out, they leave behind an infusion of flavors that contribute to the final mezcal. The presence of this insect is a defining feature that distinguishes mezcal from other spirits, and it can also be seen on the label of some mezcal bottles. The worm does not affect the taste or aroma of the mezcal, but it can add unique and exotic characteristics to the beverage.